wizardslop.blogg.se - Fireworks problem visual logic

FIREWORKS PROBLEM VISUAL LOGIC DRIVER

Buck converters are not cheap.Ī second LDO to generate an intermediate rail and also implement proper current sensing, this will have a quiescent current of <200uA. The second version will be more expensive. The second version will use a buck converter to generate the logic rail, quiescent current draw will be ~20-40uA. Quiescent current draw is 2.5mA 400uA in future revisions at all voltages. One version will use a high voltage linear regulator to supply the logic circuitry, this one will be low cost.

There will be two versions made by two different manufacturers.

Auto-turn-off will not work with messed up ESCs, like some of mine are, namely they get hot for no reason while idling, no clue how they still work on 10S FOC.

FIREWORKS PROBLEM VISUAL LOGIC DRIVER

If this device attempted to do that, both the MOSFETs and the gate driver will popcorn from the negative transient. NO HOT SWAPPING (this is true of ALL antisparks) when installing, plug in the ESCs first, then plug in the battery, and do the exact reverse when uninstalling (unplug from battery first, wait for ESCs to turn off, unplug ESCs) Try to make sure everything is off when uninstalling.Beyond this, auto-turn-off gets finnicky, beyond 10,000uF, the MOSFET popcorns. Maximum output capacitance of 6,000uF.Very low quiescent current draw, more details on this below.Production versions will be around 30x30mm or 30x40mm.Don’t reprogam this thing unless I explicitly tell you to. Firmware updates or installing custom firmware is as easy as bodge wiring an arduino uno to the programming pins. OPTIONAL Momentary Pushbutton, 0.3s to turn off, 1s to turn off, holding it down will cycle it on, then off.With a heatsink, it will be able to handle 100A continuous without issues.There is a 10 second delay after it turns off.

This also means if you decide to coast for 20 minutes, or apply a constant throttle for 20 minutes, it will also turn off.

Auto-turn-off, detects changes in current through a proprietary algorithm, if no change for 20 minutes, turns off.

Roll-to-start, works at low speeds, but will also trigger if you give the board a good enough bump.

12S operation, swapping the ltc7004 for the ltc7001 and the MOSFETs means 20S operation (there will be an ESC that supports 20S, in time ).

LTC7004/7001 means driving N-Channel MOSFETs.

In-rush current limiting as specified in the ltc7004 datasheet, dV/dt is ~184V/s.

HIGH SIDE SWITCHING << VERY IMPORTANT, NO MORE CANBUS FIRES.

Starting a discussion on this before I roll out prototypes. Since I keep running my mouth off on other antispark threads, thought I would make my own. I will open an issues and feedback thread here Flipsky Smart Antispark Issues, Feedback, and Review I didn’t even take my own advice and still didn’t have an issue. If you need to store your board for more than a week, I would highly recommend unplugging everything regardless of what hardware you have in it. If you charge your board at least once a week it won’t be a problem.

I also left one of these in my board for like two (three? some long ass time) months and it went from fully charged to 36V, It’s a lipo stack, and I suspect that the battery’s internal leakage is actually higher. Prototype testers reported no issues with the antispark draining the battery. I realized my mistake too late and after the first fab order was put in. There is a hardware revision for the V1 to get its current draw from 2.5mA down to 300-400uA, but it will most likely have to be implemented in future production runs. Flispky’s new smart antispark is an implementation of the V1.